The Wedgwood Collection and the changing face of UK pottery

Wedgwood Museum

Staffordshire pottery manufacture changed forever in the late 1980's and early 1990's. The power of the supermarket buyers, the draw of low cost manufacture overseas and the changing markets in Europe all contributed to the massive decline in pottery manufacture in the UK. So many big names like Royal Doulton, Spode, and Royal Worcester, to name but a few, now exist merely as brands with the factories closed and demolished. Bleak as it was for the thousands of workers who lost their jobs during that time, many of those workers still talk fondly of the friendships, skills and pride of working in the hundreds of potbanks which existed at that time in north Staffordshire and especially Stoke on Trent.

Staffordshire Oatcakes

It was not just  the potteries that demised but also the services to those factories, the engineers, the material suppliers and sandwich and oatcake shops that provided breakfast and lunch to the hungry workers at break times.For the lucky few they found work elsewhere and the humble Staffordshire Oatcake lives on mainly through online marketing and Social Media.

Many of those pottery workers now rely heavily on their work pensions created during their employment at companies like Wedgwood. However Wedgwood pension trust has a big pension deficit that is causing  problems.

Over the last few years the importance of this pension deficit has been highlighted as the struggle to keep the magnificent Wedgwood Collection at its home in the Wedgwood museum in Stoke on Trent continues.

For those who have not seen the collection I urge you to do so. You will not be disappointed. At over 80,000 historical pieces, ranging from early experiments for new bodies and glazes through to modern production as well as rare manuscripts and letters, pattern books, works of art and photographs, covering the 250-year Wedgwood history, it is one of the most unique industrial archives in the world. The importance of the collection is explained in more detail in this Wedgwood video link.

The collection is under threat because a legal loophole allowed a Wedgwood previously in liquidation to place pension debt in the Museum trust. The trustees have no option but to try to pay off this debt by selling some or all of the collection.

We cannot lose this collection from the UK or allow it to be dispersed around the world to private collectors. It is OUR heritage and I urge you to donate to help meet the £2.74m shortfall still required to keep the collection together in the UK.

Thank you for your support.

Pottery Materials-Potters You've Never Had it So Good!

Sources of materials

Materials dug from the ground have been the source of pottery making for thousands of years. However early potters relied heavily on local materials, especially the clays and sands. This was certainly the case in my beloved Staffordshire, England where local marl clays formed the major source of clay for early industrial potters.

Borax granules

Today materials are shipped around the world to areas of high industrial scale ceramic manufacture. For example the high quality white china clays from the south of England are often shipped to Asia to make the finest bone china and porcelain bodies. Similarly borax and boron minerals from Turkey and the USA are used in Europe to make glazes and frits for tile, tableware and sanitary ware manufacture.

However it is not just the source of available materials but also the quality and consistency that has helped modern potters and potteries to improve their quality, designs and efficiency.

Materials for body making

Body materials

The main materials used to produce a clay body are silica or quartz, felspar, and clays. These materials come in various purities, particle sizes, and qualities. To produce the finest white bodies, high purity low iron materials are used and these materials are sourced locally where available. However most areas of pottery manufacture do not have the required purity or consistency required from all their local suppliers and are therefore forced to consider other supplies. It is the consistency in purity, and control of of material properties that has made a significant difference to large scale pottery manufacturers. They can automate processes and improve efficiency to reduce costs. Materials are now stardardised to fit processing routes. For example 30 mesh and 200 mesh materials are common in the UK. These improvements in materials for industrial scale customers also has a knock on benefit for craft, hobby and studio potters who can also purchase these same materials from distributors and use them with greater confidence.

Materials for glaze making

Frit granules

Like body the main materials used for glaze making are silica, china clay, and felspar. However frits (fused glass fragments) and other minerals such as limestone, dolomite, wollastonite, zircon are often added to control the fired properties of the glaze. Expensive technical grade chemicals such as zinc oxide, barium carbonate,and boric acid are also used in small quantities in the glaze or frit to meet the most demanding glaze requirements. However it is in the use of boron products where industrial scale and craft scale differ the most. Large scale glaze manufacturers predominantly use frits as a source of boron, where craft glaze makers use boron products such as Gerstley borate. The benefits of using frits for industrial scale glaze manufacture are far reaching. The recipe of the glaze is designed to be lead free and often fine tuned to give the widest firing range and technical performance. Control of glaze slip properties, glaze application, and firing properties are of paramount importance especially in automated plants which are not suited to the use of borates in glaze. Slip control of the glaze involves controlling both the solids content of the slurry, the viscosity (fluidity) and the drying time by means of chemical additives.

This differentiation in supply is a benefit to craft and hobby potters who can choose a from a wide range of frits or borates depending on their scale of operation or cost needs. .

Materials for decoration

A whole range of  methods are now available for decoration of pottery. When colour was introduced to pottery in early years it was in the form of naturally occurring coloured minerals usually high in iron. Consequently the colour range was restricted to brown- red to grey blue in colour depending on the firing condition. However with the development of pigments from the eighteenth century many more colours became available with Chinese blue colour on white glaze becoming very popular.                                      

range of onglaze decorating colours

Today a full range of stable mixable ceramic colours are available ranging from bright yellow to blue to red. Together with a wider range of decorating techniques the modern potter now has the opportunity to design truly unique ware that is also repeatable.

Range of ceramic stains

To put this into perspective an anology might be to compare Fords "you can have it in any colour as long as its black" to the current range of colours and effects used to paint modern vehicles.

In a similar way to body and glaze materials, decorating colours such as onglaze have become standardised and more consistent in both their application and firing. Colours have been developed without lead and are available in the best medium (liquid) to allow optimum application whether that is hand painting, machine banding or screen printing. Introduction of digital printing has allowed digital images to be translated from computer to ware using ink jet decals or even direct printing in a similar fashion to paper printing. For the hand made purists in pottery computer support to design has not always been welcomed but it has extended the range of design to new levels.

In the future design will be pushed even further by 3D printing which is in its infancy in the pottery industry.

Summary

Clearly material technology and control in the pottery industry has progressed almost unnoticed since the early eighteenth century pottery manufacture. However it has progressed and the development of more consistent, environmentally friendly colours together with a wider colour palette has been of great benefit to modern potters, large and small..  The advent of digital printing in recent years and the potential of 3D printing is set to revolutionise the industry further creating even more design possibilities.

Yes Potters it is true! You've never had it so good!

Comments welcomed?

Happy Potting

The Potters Friend

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend.

Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.

How to Choose Your Pottery Clay Body

What is clay?

Flat plates of clay particles

Before choosing your pottery clay body it is first important to understand a little about clay and why it is used as a component of a clay body. Clay is a mineral extracted from the ground which can be readily moulded like plasticine. At microscopic level, the particles of clay have a flat plate-like structure giving them this plastic like property. The 2 most commonly used pottery clays are Ball Clay and China Clay (Kaolin). Ball clay tends to be very plastic-mouldable but off white in colour. China clay is less plastic but has a whiter fired colour. Many other clays are available but they tend to be off white to red in colour and therefore less used in high volume white pottery manufacture.

What is a clay body?

The terms clay and body are used by potters almost interchangeably. However in most cases it is not technically correct! In simple terms a body is a formula containing clay and other minerals. Therefore clay is a raw material component of a body. In past times a body was simply a clay dug from the ground which was variable in both its composition and properties. However, modern commercial potters no longer rely on bodies manufactured from clay alone. To achieve specific properties they are scientifically formulated in a very precise way. A wide range of raw clays and minerals are used from all around the world. They vary in colour, strength, particle size as well as mineralogy and purity. No two clays from different parts of the world are precisely the same although for comparison purposes they can act in a similar way when used as part of a body formula. For studio pottery manufacture coarse minerals called grogs are often added to the clay body formulas to give additional texture appeal and improved properties.

How to choose the best clay for you

Firing range of your kiln

The maximum firing temperature of your kiln should be your first consideration when deciding which type of clay body to buy. It is no use choosing a stoneware clay firing 1250 C if your kiln will only fire to 1200 C. Lower temperature kilns are suitable for earthenware and terracotta bodies (less than 1200 C) whereas high temperature kilns are acceptable for most bodies including porcelain and stoneware.

Colour

The fired colour of the body will often dictate the cost. In general whiter clay bodies are more expensive than buff or cream coloured ones. The type of clay body you use is often prescribed by your colour selection. For example porcelain and bone china are always very white after firing.  To give you an idea of the fired colour produced by the different clay body types see the section entitled 'range of bodies'. Please also note that the firing temperature has a significant affect on the fired colour!

The making Process

The making process you intend to use to shape the body is also an important factor when considering the most appropriate clay body. Clay body sub-types allow you to select a clay suitable for all major forming operations including throwing, hand-building, sculpting, casting or machine making.

Size of your work and end use

The size of the pottery piece you plan to make is also important. Larger pieces often require a more heavily grogged (less plastic) clay whereas smaller pieces of work can require more plasticity. In addition, the end use of the ware, whether it is purely ornamental, for outside use, or designed as functional tableware will affect your choice of clay body.

Texture

For the more experienced potter the texture of the clay body after firing is often important.. The feel, look and strength of the ceramic piece is strongly affected by this sub-type of clay. For example the grogged subgroup of bodies generally add texture, strength and stability, whilst an ungrogged body will result in a smoother more polished finish.

Glaze compatibility

Whichever clay body you choose it is imperative that you select a glaze which is compatible with the body. This technical compatibility is critical to producing an intact piece without faults after firing. Be guided by your supplier who can supply compatible glazes for most body types and firing schedules. For peace of mind you should always test a sample of the glaze and clay body in your own kiln prior to any major production. The temperature and firing schedule of your kiln will influence whether your clay body and glaze are compatible after firing.

Range of Clay Bodies

The are numerous clay bodies produced commercially around the world available to the craft potter, studio potter and commercial pottery. Indeed there are so many that it is impossible to detail them all here. Bodies are often developed to make them suitable for the making process. Therefore suppliers often state  subtypes which define which clay bodies are more suitable for hand throwing, casting, hand building etc.

Clay bodies however can be classified into a relatively small number of categories according to their colour, firing range and texture. Below are a few major examples showing the fired colour of individual body types.

Porcelain

Bone China

Earthenware

Stoneware

Terracotta

Bone China

Bone China

This is a smooth textured extremely white firing body that is also translucent. It is unique in that it contains a high proportion of calcined bone ash . Biscuit firing at approx 1220 C gives it a high strength making it suitable for producing delicate highly decorative items as well as tableware. This type of ware after glazing is often decorated with onglaze colours or precious metal decoration to create stunning pieces of pottery. Electric firing kilns usually produce the best bone china quality.

Porcelain

This is a smooth textured translucent extra white firing body similar to bone china. However two types of porcelain are made, a 'hard porcelain' which requires a glaze firing in excess of 1400 C and a 'soft porcelain' which requires a glaze firing to approx 1250 C. Biscuit firing however is often around 1000 C which allows pieces to be glazed more successfully. High temperature gas kilns are often used to fire this type of body. Porcelain, like bone china, can also be decorated with onglaze enamels and precious metal to create delicate highly attractive giftware as well as tableware.

Stoneware

Stoneware

This class of clay body is commonly used by craft and studio potters. It has a relatively high biscuit firing temperature in excess of 1150C.  Many commercial bodies, available in a range of off white to buff colours, are fired in the range 1250-1300C to give maximum strength. By glazing with a reactive type coloured glaze a wide variety of effects and colours can be achieved. Because of this stoneware has found high popularity with craft potters looking to create unique coloured or or textured hand made pottery. This body type can be used to produce both decorative and functional pieces such as tableware.

Terracotta

Terracotta

This class of body is typified by its unique red terracotta colour. This clay body has a high iron content in its mineral components giving the unique red colour. Like stoneware the smooth texture can be modified, by addition of grog (coarse material), to give a much rougher finish. Terracotta bodies have a relatively low firing temperature of 1000-1050C and are therefore porous and have relatively low strength after firing. Commonly unglazed it is often used for sculptures, planters, tiles and garden ware where the technical properties are not so demanding. For more demanding environments such as tableware the body is often glazed to give a stronger more durable product.

Earthenware

This type of body is often used for hand painting by hobbyists.

For craft pottery this body is biscuit fired to approx 1000 C to allow easy brushing of underglaze colours or coloured glaze on to the porous surface. Following  glaze firing to 1050 C to 1150 C the body colour and underglaze colours show through the transparent glaze producing highly decorative ware.  After glaze firing the body remains porous with reduced strength compared to fully vitrified bodies like porcelain or bone china.

Body colour ranges from white to buff and some bodies are also grogged to provide texture.

For commercial tableware optimum body strength is achieved by firing the biscuit in the range 1180-1220 C but this peak is not often needed for lower strength or decorative only ware.

Special bodies

This range of bodies include, highly coloured bodies, low firing bodies, Raku bodies, and special highly textured bodies. In the case of Raku the body is modified to allow rapid heating and cooling without  cracking, usually by the addition of grog. Making raku pottery successfully requires more expertise than other pottery types and often depends on a trial and error approach. To learn more about Raku read my separate article on Raku making.

Summary

Clearly, choosing the right clay body for you poses a number of technical questions. It is more difficult than is immediately obvious. However I recommend you talk to your clay body suppliers in the first instance and not just search the internet. Their vast knowledge of their products will make the whole process of selection of suitable body and glaze just that much easier.

Good Luck
Happy potting!
The Potters Friend

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend.

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How to choose your pottery kiln

K&F front loader

Making a kiln purchase is a big step for many potters. It is probably the biggest financial outlay you have as a potter and you would expect a new kiln to last 10 years or more depending on frequency of use. Most pottery beginners start by attending pottery classes and having their ware fired by the tutor. After developing your skills and with a long term commitment to pottery making you are in a better position to decide your needs:-

Set your Budget

Decide your budget. Make it realistic and include cost of delivery and installation. Also don't forget internal shelves and supports are not usually supplied as part of the kiln and need to be purchased separately. Include a good temperature controller. A kiln is only as good as the controller! Remember planning permission maybe required for some external installations? Decide whether you want to buy new or second hand. Although this will vary considerably as a rule of thumb a good quality second hand kiln  is often about 20% cost of new.

Select the energy source

Decide what type of kiln energy source you will use. Often the type of ware and pottery you intend to make can determine this. For example reduction firing of glaze will require gas or oil firing whilst decal firing is better done in electric firing. It is worth noting that, in general, electric is a cleaner and more controllable fuel than gas but more expensive. Other fuel sources such as Oil, LPG, and wood vary tremendously depending on location and availability.

Identify kiln size and site and type

Decide what size and where it is to be located, does it need special ventilation? How many pieces do I want to fire now? and the future? What size or weight will they be? Will I fire bisque and glost and decoration?

Whether to choose a front loading or top loading kiln often depends on the size and number of the pieces you wish to fire. Generally top loading kilns are smaller than front loading kilns which are easier on the back for placing and unloading.

Visit showrooms or research online

There is no substitute for seeing the kiln you want to buy in person. This will give you a real sense of size and ease of use. A good supplier of kilns will have a range of kilns for display purposes and talk you through many of the decisions you need to make. However as a general rule you need to know the following before you talk with your supplier

What size and shape of pieces you wish to make and how many?

What temperature you wish to fire glost or bisque or decal

Whether you have refractory shelving and supports for the pieces you want to make.

Whether you have 2 or 3 phase electric supply. Domestic supplies are predominantly 2 phase.

Whether you have mains gas supply or other

Calculate firing costs

It is possible to work out the firing costs using the KWH rating or gas usage as a guide. For smaller hobby kilns the difference in costs between gas and electric may not be high but for bigger kilns this needs to be factored in to your buying decision. Again a good kiln supplier will be able to advise you on this.

Choose both for now and the future

Make your selection based on your plans for the foreseeable future. Agree the price for everything including the set up of kiln in its final location not just to your doorstep. Unless it is a simple domestic plug in kiln, employ a professional electrician or gas fitter to ensure your kiln is installed correctly. This gives you peace of mind as well as meeting any legal requirements.

Test out the kiln 

Once you have your new kiln installed test it out first with known tried and tested body and glaze. New kilns can take a while (a few firings) to settle as the refractories are more porous than a used kiln and the gasses from firing soak into the brickwork.

Happy Potting!

Enjoy the new sense of freedom having your own kiln brings and good luck!

More information and other technical articles on kilns, pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend.

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Digital printing of ceramics

Digital printing of ceramics and decals

Digital printing of decals and ceramic tiles is already well established. Computer generated images can be printed directly onto ceramic tiles via special inkjet systems. Alternatively a photocopier type system can be used to print onto decal paper. Of course both these systems require special machines and ceramic inks or toners to produce optimum results. Nevertheless these systems are causing a revolution in the ceramic tile industry.

The detail of decal printing

Ricoh desktop ceramic printer

In the case of digital decal, you can either create a drawing or photograph and then convert it to a digital image suitable for printing on to decal paper. The image is produced as a decal by a photocopier type machine. After printing the image is sealed to the paper with a covercoat and allowed to dry. The decal can then be applied in the same way as conventional decals by a water slide method. Decorators have the choice of either outsourcing decals (small quantities) or for large quantities buying a machine and toners and printing themselves..

The detail of ink jet printing of tiles

Pigment	System	Temperature	Colour
Yellow	Zr-Si- Pr	1250 °C
Red Magenta	Zr-Cd-Si-Se	1250 °C
Cyan	Zr-V-Si	1250 °C
Black	Fe-Cr-Co-Ni	1250 °C
Primary 4 colours used in ink jet printing

In the case of ink jet printing, the digital image is converted to a ceramic image using a specially adapted ink jet printer and special inks. The ceramic tile passes beneath the printer head and the ink jet colour nozzles deposit the image on the tile.

Gamma Ink Jet Tile Printer

Typically up to 10 ceramic colours are used to produce high quality digital images, 4 similar to the primary colours shown above plus additional spot colours. Browns, coral reds and white are commonly used to fill gaps in the colour space. Special printer heads are used to cope with the highly abrasive ceramic inks. For maximum definition and colour intensity special glazes are sometimes used as the base for printing the coloured image. The printed item can be fired almost immediately after drying.

3d Printing of Ceramics

I am constantly amazed at the ceramic challenges I see each year. Whilst making pottery and ceramics is an ancient tradition, new industrial processes and products (or the re-introduction of many older techniques) continue to stretch the imagination.

3d printed sugar bowl

Both in the UK and USA, 3 dimensional digital printing is one such technique. Developed initially for rapid prototyping of plastic objects it is now being used for small special ceramic parts. The potential to build up a ceramic mug  layer by layer  from a computer image is certainly feasible.
 I have seen the initial prototypes which have been glazed and fired. Many technical challenges remain for this process to be viable commercially but I have no doubt that in the long term this will happen.
For more information about this technique see the link project below:-
 University of Bristol project

3d printing using liquid clay syringe

3d extruder printing

This type of printing is also in the early stages of development for ceramics. Many questions remain particularly control of rheology and removing air pockets and machine development.. However the picture on the right shows how the process works. An air powered syringe forces liquid clay out of the nozzle to build up the object in layers. The head could be computer controlled to map out a digital design.
Potentially the ceramic designer can be creative in designing complex forms as well as simple shapes.
Picture and link to more information kindly provided by Ceramic 3D Extruder (FabLabZuidLimburg) / CC BY-NC 3.0

So what does this mean to the hobby or studio potter?

The opportunity to make low cost efficient designs which can be personalised to meet your customer needs. Digital ceramic decals are already established and widely available. But keep following the progress of 3d printing as the potential is endless. Perhaps now is the time to look at ways these techniques can expand your opportunities?

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.

Burnishing unfired clay pottery

Burnished ware by David Greenbaum

I recently came across the term 'beeswax pottery' and wondered what it meant. I discovered that it was a form of burnishing clay pottery to give it a smooth attractive mainly waterproof finish. Previously, to me, burnishing was just a term for the polishing of gold decoration used for the decoration of pottery.

It reminded me that you never stop learning with pottery. It is such a wide subject which continues to grow as new techniques are invented (or old ones re-invented!).

 History of clay burnishing 
Many ancient potters used burnishing to make their pottery harder and more waterproof before they discovered the use of glazes. Nowadays, modern potters choose to finish their work by burnishing because of the subtle, but beautiful finish achieved using this method. A burnished pot often has a soft, tactile quality all its own. However modern potters also need to know that this type of pottery should be used for decorative purposes only and not for ware intended for contact with food or drink.

Health and safety considerations are now a more important part of our modern life!

 So What is Burnishing and how is it done?

Burnishing is basically rubbing the surface of the clay piece until it becomes glossy. To achieve a satisfactory finish it often takes several hours for even a small pot. Skill and practice are required for this technique as it is highly influenced by the state of drying. The best stage to burnish is usually at the later stage of leatherhard. However many potters burnish the piece more than once to achieve the ultimate finish.

Working in very small areas, applying a little lubricant at a time to the piece, rubbing in different directions will gradually create a sheen. Care is needed as sufficient force is needed to compress the surface but not create a hole or flake. After firing the sheen is mostly retained and can be improved by polishing with beeswax or other types of wax.

 Some key factors to consider when using this technique include:-

  Choose your clay wisely
Burnishing requires either a very fine clay body, or fine clay engobe. Clay bodies which contains grog or sand are therefore not recommended for this technique. Low firing clay bodies such as earthenware are also recommended as higher firing bodies can give rough texture after firing.

Choose your shapes wisely
Pots with smooth flowing surfaces are easier to burnish and look so much better when fired. Complex shapes with sharp corners or surface features will be almost impossible to burnish properly.
  
Choose your tools wisely

The burnishing tools you use need to be smooth, hard and easy to hold. As burnishing is a very time consuming process comfort is an important factor and this is a personal thing. However most potters use the backs of spoons or polished stones for this technique. Some potters carry out a secondary burnish using smooth plastic or other materials.

Choose your burnishing oil wisely.
To aid the burnishing process the use of a burnishing lubricant is recommended. The lubricant allows the clay to densify and give an even smoother finish after firing. . Lubricants that are often used include vegetable oils, lard, and water. Although the choice of lubricant is subjective, water is the least recommended as there is a tendency for it to soak into the body or flake the surface as it is pressed.

Firing 
Firing of the ware after burnishing is important and can alter the texture of the surface significantly. Low firing clay bodies appear to work best.

 Post firing polishing 
 Firing gives the burnished ware a lovely, tactile soft feel. In ancient times, animal fat, oil, and wax were often used to make it more waterproof and to restore the pre-firing high gloss. Today, most potters use a  form of wax. Paraffin wax, candle wax, and beeswax, have all been used successfully. By applying the wax to a small area of heated ware and polishing a high sheen can be achieved.  The result is an outstanding piece of decorative ware that often looks as though it has been glazed but feels so different!

If you found this article of interest make sure you read about Terra Sigallata a method for making shiny ware without the polishing stages!

Of course more information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website  The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free  newsletter.

How to Choose a Pottery Class

The Benefit of Classes

Learning how to make pottery whilst enjoyable in its own right, can be enhanced by professional teaching and sharing of experience with other students.

Classes help people learn quicker and provide the right learning environment to enjoy the experience as well as make friends. This should not be underestimated as many frustrations will become apparent along the way..There are both studio potters who run classes in evenings and weekends as well as local colleges who run part time and full time courses.

Be clear on your needs

One question you need to ask yourself is "do I want to learn the practical skills such as throwing on a wheel or do I want to have a good scientific/artistic understanding?" Knowing this will help define your teaching requirement.

I recently read a debate about when should you call yourself a potter? It was interesting to note that most people shared my view that "you never stop learning in pottery". As pottery making is such a wide subject, you can be an expert in part of it and a mere novice in another area.

Therefore at which point you become expert or call yourself a potter is purely arbitrary.

This point is important as you need to find an expert teacher in the area of pottery in which you want to learn more. 

Choose the right teacher and class

Choosing the right pottery class is not always easy. For example, if you have an interest in learning the basics of  pottery making then joining a class learning about Raku firing is less useful. Similarly if you purely want to learn artistic skills such as hand painting of china as a hobby, there is no need to learn about slip casting of bone china. Clearly it is important to ask the right questions to make sure a class meets your specific needs.

Some helpful links

The following links and brief details of classes may be helpful. Unfortunately I cannot make recommendations as there are so many of which I am not personally familiar. Therefore when making an enquiry please ask for references from previous satisfied clients and ensure that the classes meet your needs etc

Good Luck and enjoy!

Pottery Classes in USA
Directory of Pottery Classes, Courses, Lessons, Events, Workshops, Free Classes, in USA
Pottery classes and Art courses in UK
Directory of Pottery,arts and crafts classes, workshops and painting holidays in Britain and Europe.

More details of individual classes and workshops can be found below:-

Details of UK pottery classes

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.

Art Deco Ceramics

A time of great design or merely time for a change?

Art Deco ceramics are commonly associated with specific designers such as Clarice Cliffe, Susie Cooper and Charlotte Rhead whose striking designs changed the face of modern pottery. However the term covers a much wider range of pottery styles as well as architecture and fashion. But was it truly a time of great design or merely time for a change? Let us examine the evidence.....

The history of Art Deco

Ravel conical ware by Clarice Cliffe
Photo by Leonard Griffin

Art Deco is said to have begun in France in the 1920s and developed internationally especially in Europe and America until the late 1930's. However it was not until the revival in the 1960s that the term 'Art Deco' was introduced. Until that time it was called 'Arte Moderne' or 'Arte Decoritif'. Since that time many modern potteries have developed patterns based around similar principles.
The advent of Art Deco changed the face of pottery in the UK at the time. The bright colours and geometric shapes of Clarice Cliffe especially, was a long way removed from many of the chinese inspired pottery designs that had gone before. However many shapes and designs were influenced by Mexican and Egyptian styles. A revolution in design was in the making! In the UK the popularity was aided by young new designers and and the advent of advertising and to a degree mechanisation. Designer labels grew as a marketing trend and women designers had phenomenal success. It became a necessity for small potteries to find new designs to beat off the threat of imports from Germany and Czechslovakia and Japan.

Clarice Cliffe

Original Bizarre on Athens Shape
Original Picture by Harvey

Clarice Cliffe, probably the name most associated with Art Deco style, was born in Tunstall, Stoke on Trent in 1899. She joined Royal Staffordshire Pottery aged just 17 and briefly studied art at the Royal College of Art in London. Her skill was such that she rapidly became a top designer of ceramics and was probably the first to design both the shape and decoration of UK commercial tableware. Cliffe produced some of the most exciting designs of the times ware adorned with bright colours such as Original Bizarre.

Crocus pattern
Photograph by  Andy Titcomb

Her success resulted in numerous designs being release in commercial volumes between 1927 and 1939. However it was the more conservative 'Crocus' pattern which was regarded as her signature pattern.
Pieces of Clarice Cliffe are now highly collectable and include such striking designs as the conical ginger sifters. Collecting is made easier by the fact that virtually all Clarice Cliffe pieces are clearly marked with her name using a rubber backstamp or litho.

Susie Cooper

Kestrel pattern
From National Museum Wales

Born in 1902 in Stoke on Trent, she entered the pottery industry at A.E. Gray & Co in 1922 and trained under Gordon Forsyth. Brightly coloured abstract geometrics and cubist patterns were her trademark and she developed some stunning designs such as Kestrel and the cube shape galaxy pattern. By 1929 she had left Gray and started her own pottery painting business and this initiated a long and distinguished design career spanning 60 years. Her designs were highly practical with 'fitness for purpose'being a common theme. A black triangular back-stamp with the words Susie Cooper Productions was used until about 1932. After this time a variety of signatures was used.

Charlotte Read

Tube lined plate by Charlotte Rhead
Photo by Chris Bertram.

Born in 1885 into an artistic family in the potteries town of Burslem, Charlotte Rhead studied art at Fenton School of Art. Working for a local company Wardle and Co she learned the skill of tube lining. It was this skill and the influence of her time at Wood and Sons which set her career apart as a designer. Later in 1926 working for Burgess and Leigh she mainly produced ornamental or luxury pieces using her tube lining skill.

Other Art Deco ware

Shelley Vogue shape cup and saucer, designed by Eric Slater 1930

Harmony Art Ware ginger jar - Eric Slater 1932

The Shelley Family was a highly acclaimed producer of Art bone china in the art deco style. Apart from the elegant 'vogue shape' it produced highly decorative vases such as
'Harmony Artware'. Eric Slater was the designer responsible for many of the hugely successful designs.

The Wedgwood family also produced a range of ware in art Deco style. Using a range of designers such as Keith Murray, Skeaping, Makeig-Jones, and Ravilous they continued to create outstanding designs throughout the 1930's. Makeig-Jones in particular changed the image of Wedgwood ware with her inspirational 'Fairyland Lustre' range of patterns.

The Modern Era

Wedgwood Jasper Conran

Clearly many of the Art Deco designs of early period have inspired post year 2000 patterns. Classic, timeless and elegant, almost all top pottery brands have some element of Art Deco in their range. Wedgwood, Portmeirion, Dudson and Steelite each include high coloured decorative patterns or striking geometric shapes. This is not by accident and I can only conclude that the Art Deco period was truly a time of great design!

I would love to hear your comments?

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How to make a Pottery Glaze

The Glaze Recipe There are literally thousands of different types of glaze depending on the clay body used and the firing cycle and condition. A virtually unlimited number of colours, textures and designs are also possible. Applying more than one glaze to the piece just multiplies the possibilities. Each glaze needs its own specific recipe, making process and testing for optimum performance. However for ease of understanding I shall give the recipe and outline process for a transparent glossy glaze firing at 1050C. A typical glaze recipe includes: Borax Frit China Clay Transparent borax frit               90 parts China clay                                10 parts Water                                       50 parts Glaze milling (particle size reduction) In order to melt a glaze rapidly and produce a high gloss finish it is necessary to reduce the particle size to a powder and ensure that it is well dispersed in water. For this to be achieved the particles of the frit and clay are ground to an average size of 5 microns-less than 1/10th the size of a human hair. Overall a distribution in the range 60-70% less than 15 microns is targeted. Glaze Mill Ball mills are traditionally used to grind the materials to make the glaze. The ball mill is a metal cylinder lined with hard alumina or silica blocks. The mill is filled with graded ceramic balls with a max size of 5cm. to approx 50% apparent volume of the internal space. This allows efficient grinding of the glaze. The glaze materials occupy approx 1/3 the volume. The glaze is sampled after set time periods eg 12 to 20 hours until the required particle size distribution is achieved. Glaze Processing Once the average particle size is achieved the glaze slurry is poured out of the mill into a storage vessel via a coarse sieve. This removes large glaze particles and remnants of the grinding balls from the glaze. Typically a 60 mesh sieve is used. The glaze is then processed further by passing the slurry over thro a fine sieve typically less than 100 mesh and a strong magnet. The magnet can be rare earth magnets or electromagnets. This cleansing process removes more of the coarse residue and contaminants that can give faults after firing. Glaze Quality Controls A few simple tests are used to assess the quality and suitability of a glaze for use and include:- 1. Glaze appearance after firing- by glazing a tile of standard body and firing 2. Particle Size measurement and distribution 3. Solids content of slip = slip density 4. Slip fluidity = Slip viscosity Additional tests may be carried out depending on the end use. For example for hotelware the physical and chemical durability may be assessed. Rheology Control The glaze slip rheology is controlled according to the application method required eg dip, spray or brush etc. This is achieved by control of density, viscosity and thixotropy. A torsion viscometer and density can are often used to measure and control these key properties of the slip. Addition of binders and other chemical additives are usually necessary to achieve the optimum properties for specific application methods. Supply and Packaging; Glaze can be supplied in containers suitable for use from 500ml jars for brush on glaze, 5 to 50 litres for dip glaze and 5 to 1000 Litre tanks for spray glaze. For industrial use tankers containing 10000 litres may even be used. However for overseas or long distance supply the glaze is often supplied as a dried powder. In this case the user needs to mix up the glaze and control the slip characteristics themselves. More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.

The Elusive Red Pottery Glaze

Symbolism of Red

Red is one of the most popular colours to be used worldwide. The color red is associated with lust, passion, love, beauty, and danger. In Asia it is a symbol of courage, loyalty, honor, success, fortune, fertility, happiness, passion, and summer.

Consequently many types of asian pottery including the beautiful chinese red glazes of the Sung Dynasty and the exquisite Japanese Imari porcelain feature red as the main colour.

However in more recent times the demand for mass produced red pottery of high intensity and consistent colour has created a real challenge for ceramic engineers involved in pottery manufacture.

Japanese Red
Imari porcelain is the name for Japanese porcelain wares made in the town of Arita, in the former Hizen Province, northwestern Kyūshū. They were exported to Europe extensively from the port of Imari, Saga between latter half of 17th century and former half of 18th century.

Photo of Imari by George Le Gars

Though there are many types of Imaris, Western Europes conception of Imari is associated with the type of Imari produced and exported in large quantity in mid-17th century. This type is called Kinrande and is coloured porcelain with underglaze cobalt blue and onglaze red and gold.

The blue is rich in colour and hue and is based on a cobalt containing pigment. The red colour, however, whilst remarkably bright and interesting is not such a clean hue and is produced using iron oxide or iron based ceramic pigments.

Iron ochres and natural red clays are some of the earliest pigments used by man and continue to be used today particularly in hand crafted pottery of rustic nature.

Rouge Flambe
Similarly many of the early ceramic red colours and glazes used on European pottery were not always pure in colour and were based on copper or gold in colloidal form. These colours were used to copy original Chinese patterns and glazes perfected in the 18th century.

Rouge Flambe by Royal Doulton Co

Interest in reproducing flambe glazes began in about 1855 in France but soon spread across Europe, particularly to England and Germany.

In Britain, the Staffordshire potter Bernard Moore used experimental and highly accomplished red flambe glazes on Chinese-inspired shapes to wonderful effect. Requiring a special glaze formula, firing cycle and condition they were expensive to manufacture and difficult to reproduce.

Shown here is a vase made by Royal Doulton decorated with the spectacular Rouge Flambe glaze.

The Challenge of Pillar Box Red

Red Pillar Box by Ian Britton 
FreeFoto.com

The development of a reproducible pillar box red glaze and decoration has been an elusive challenge for potters and ceramic engineers through the ages.

In particular the large scale development and manufacture of pillar box red colour and glaze for pottery is believed to have taken over eight thousand years to achieve. It was not until the twentieth century that true pillar box red glazes and onglaze colours became widely available for decoration of pottery.

Cadmium Sulpho-Selenide Red Glazes

Red glazes and colours based on cadmium have been available for about 50 years. The early glazes and colours of this type depended heavily on cadmium being added to the glaze as a pigment mixed crystal Cadmium sulphoselenide (CdSSe). However glazes of this type lacked temperature stability above approx 800C.

To overcome this the cadmium was added to the frit batch and subsequently melted into a glassy state. In many cases the frits also contained lead, sulphur and selenium. This type of glaze required firing in a specific way to achieve optimum results. The firing time and the kiln atmosphere were both critical. The best results were obtained using a short firing cycle to a peak temperature of approximately 1000C. Good air circulation in the kiln, and a good separation of pieces were also recommended. Ideally Cd/Se fritted glazes should be fired separately from other types of ware, because fumes from other coloured glazes can affect the colour achieved.

First generation Zircon/ Cadmium Red Glazes

Actual Red

Target Red

In the 1970s ceramic engineers in Europe developed a new generation of red colours and glazes. These were totally different in nature as they were based on a zircon encapsulated cadmium pigment. These were patented in 1973 by Broll et al of Degussa.

Briefly encapsulation  means that at microscopic level the cadmium is surrounded by the zircon crystal. This gives two major advantages. The pigment is more temperature stable up to 1200 celsius and more chemically stable thus giving lower cadmium release after firing and exposure to acids. These types of red glaze could be used on a variety of firing schedules and were infinitely more flexible in use.

However these pigments had a serious drawback which limited their widespread use. They lacked intensity and consequently needed high pigment loading to give any degree of colour saturation.


Second and third generation Zircon/ Cadmium Red Glazes

Red Vase by Newland Pottery BV

In the last 20 years or more the encapsulate type of pigment has been developed further to the stage where intense pillar box red coloured glazes (see target above) are now possible. These pigments have allowed more stable sanitaryware glaze colours to be produced where high temperatures in excess of 1250C are used. In addition they are suitable for use in a range of glaze and onglaze colours as they are mixable with other non cadmium based colours.

China is the major manufacturer of these types of pigment as they have proven to be a lower cost supplier of intense encapsulate pigments.

The challenge of the stable pillar box red glaze now appears to have been met by ceramic engineers. The  stable cadmium encapsulate pigment is being used by most pottery manufacturers and appears to meet current legislation in many parts of the world. However cadmium is still an emotive word for many being considered a toxic element in much the same way lead. So who knows? Will the journey to find a new pillar box red start all over again? What do you think?

This article was inspired by the recent publication of  a book entitled THE DEFIANT RED by my friend the highly respected ceramic expert Leen W Baaij.

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.