Should I make my own Pottery Glazes?

Coloured glazes used by Tinkling toadstools

This question has caused a lot of debate among potters. It is a similar question to "should I make my own bread, cakes or pastry?" Clearly there is no right and wrong answer. People who bake their own bread and cakes do so for numerous reasons. Whether it is to reduce costs or make it fresh or make it taste better; all are valid reasons. However most do it because they like it and the self satisfaction it gives them to create something of value.

 Similarly, the potter will often claim that making glazes gives him the same type of satisfaction, is cheaper and gives him more scope for creativity! But lets look at the issues involved in making glazes in detail to see if his claims are true:-

 Costs

Glaze materials

There is little debate that buying the glaze materials to make the glaze can reduce costs significantly. Common materials such as clays, felspars, silica, frits and pigments are all readily available from a number of suppliers. However, often they are not in the ideal form to produce a glaze without additional processing. Most need at least a number of processing steps to make a satisfactory glaze. These steps include, preparing a recipe, grinding or mixing with water, sieving, magneting, testing, and controlling the glaze slip consistency using additives. The time and knowledge to correctly process and test the glaze are mostly overlooked when cost comparisons are made. For those with time to learn about glaze materials and the process this is not an issue. However for many hobbyists who are time poor it clearly does not make sense economically.They are better using reliable commercial glazes.

Creativity

Unique copper ruby glaze

Without doubt making your own glazes is a creative exercise. Again using the same cake making analogy as before, you have complete control of the make up of the glaze and how it will look after firing. Just like cake recipes there are thousands of recipes for glazes each giving its unique colour, texture and appearance depending on how its fired. This uniqueness is what many studio potters strive for.  By varying the pigments and make up of the glaze in theory you can innovate to your hearts desire! Therefore creativity can surely be improved by making your own glazes!

Technical restrictions

In practice, however,  there is considerable science behind making acceptable glazes:

• The glaze needs to technically match the body or the glaze may just peel off like old paint. 

• There is a limit to the range of compositions that can be made- for example some recipes will just never make glossy glazes.
  
• The firing cycle and atmosphere have as great an affect on the glaze appearance as the recipe.

The fired glaze surface of functional tableware needs to pass the requirements of legislation e.g. toxic metal release into foodstuffs.

So if you want to be creative with glazes you also need to have some technical knowledge. Potters without a scientific background may struggle to understand these technical parameters and hence making glazes could ultimately become more trouble than its worth.

Health and Safety

Unleaded Glaze

In recent years this issue has grown in importance for potters making their own glazes. Lead, for example, is being phased out in commercial glazes and its use and safety has been severely questioned especially in the USA. Other materials such as Barium compounds need to be used within strict guidelines for safe use. Even pigments such as cobalt and nickel oxide have been questioned over their safety. Clearly there is a lot to learn technically to comply with health and safety during the making of glazes. These issues are understood by commercial glaze manufacturers who can provide up to date data sheets on the glazes they manufacture and supply.

Equally important is an understanding of the legislation that applies to the fired product to meet the demands of the end market. Functional tableware has to meet much more legislation than ornamental ware in the various countries around the world.

Summary

In summary making your own glazes safely and successfully is much more difficult than at first appreciated. Technical and health and safety issues are not easy to overcome. However for a potter or hobbyist with a scientific understanding he can indeed be more creative and lower some material costs by making his own glazes. For the uninitiated it will be a long road of trial and error and frustrations. For those determined to try I recommend you do some reading and preparation online or in the wealth of books available before you begin. 

Good Luck and Happy Potting

The Potters Friend

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend.

Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.

Opacification of Glazes

Glaze opacifiers are materials which when added to a glaze change the level of transparency of the glaze. Glazes are often described as clear/transparent or opaque. In order to achieve color tone and hide the body color it is often necessary to add opacifier particles which stay discrete in the glaze after firing. Materials which have a significant difference in refractive index from the parent glaze produce the most effective opacification. To the right you can see the effect of adding an opacifier to a transparent glaze. It becomes whiter and milky (opacified ) in nature and flows less.

Below you can see the effect of adding opacifier to a transparent glaze containing different colored pigments

Top = transparent glaze            Bottom = opaque glaze

Typical glaze opacifiers are zircon (zirconium silicate), tin oxide, and titania (titanium dioxide). 

Zircon opacifier powder

Zircon

Zircon is the preferred opacifier for glaze due to the low cost, inertness and stability in glaze. To achieve full opacification, the opacifier content and the particle size are important factors. For addition of zircon to the glaze mill during grinding a particle size of 95% less than 3 microns and a content of 5-10% ensures sufficient opacifier is dispersed to create optimum opacity.  

However an exceptional level of opacity can be achieved by pre-melting the zircon into a glass (called frit) and then using the frit as part of the glaze recipe. These frits are transparent before firing but crystallize zircon during the glaze firing process to give a high level of opacity. 

Tin Oxide

Tin oxide has historically been used as a glaze opacifier but its high cost has limited its recent use to low temperature majolica or special effect glazes. At a level of 5% in a transparent glaze a high level of opacity can be achieved. Its lower solubility in glaze compared to zircon means that lower levels of tin oxide can be used to create the same level of opacity as zircon.. Tin gives a slightly blue white tinge and also has a lesser effect on the glaze appearance than zircon which increases glaze viscosity during dissolution.One major drawback of tin is it reactivity with some oxide pigments. For example, with chrome oxide a pink discoloration may result from the formation of a chrome-tin spinel crystal.

Titania reactive glazes

Titania

Titania is also a very costly opacifier and is used primarily where reactive special effect glazes are required. Like zircon it has a higher solubility than tin in the glaze and even at levels of 4%  tends to give a yellow tinge to the glaze after firing. It readily reacts with other materials in the glaze to create many unusual crystalline phases on cooling.This is ideal for special effect glazes but undesirable for standard opaque glazes.

Happy Potting

The Potters Friend

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend.

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The Wedgwood Collection and the changing face of UK pottery

Wedgwood Museum

Staffordshire pottery manufacture changed forever in the late 1980's and early 1990's. The power of the supermarket buyers, the draw of low cost manufacture overseas and the changing markets in Europe all contributed to the massive decline in pottery manufacture in the UK. So many big names like Royal Doulton, Spode, and Royal Worcester, to name but a few, now exist merely as brands with the factories closed and demolished. Bleak as it was for the thousands of workers who lost their jobs during that time, many of those workers still talk fondly of the friendships, skills and pride of working in the hundreds of potbanks which existed at that time in north Staffordshire and especially Stoke on Trent.

Staffordshire Oatcakes

It was not just  the potteries that demised but also the services to those factories, the engineers, the material suppliers and sandwich and oatcake shops that provided breakfast and lunch to the hungry workers at break times.For the lucky few they found work elsewhere and the humble Staffordshire Oatcake lives on mainly through online marketing and Social Media.

Many of those pottery workers now rely heavily on their work pensions created during their employment at companies like Wedgwood. However Wedgwood pension trust has a big pension deficit that is causing  problems.

Over the last few years the importance of this pension deficit has been highlighted as the struggle to keep the magnificent Wedgwood Collection at its home in the Wedgwood museum in Stoke on Trent continues.

For those who have not seen the collection I urge you to do so. You will not be disappointed. At over 80,000 historical pieces, ranging from early experiments for new bodies and glazes through to modern production as well as rare manuscripts and letters, pattern books, works of art and photographs, covering the 250-year Wedgwood history, it is one of the most unique industrial archives in the world. The importance of the collection is explained in more detail in this Wedgwood video link.

The collection is under threat because a legal loophole allowed a Wedgwood previously in liquidation to place pension debt in the Museum trust. The trustees have no option but to try to pay off this debt by selling some or all of the collection.

We cannot lose this collection from the UK or allow it to be dispersed around the world to private collectors. It is OUR heritage and I urge you to donate to help meet the £2.74m shortfall still required to keep the collection together in the UK.

Thank you for your support.

How to Choose Your Pottery Clay Body

What is clay?

Flat plates of clay particles

Before choosing your pottery clay body it is first important to understand a little about clay and why it is used as a component of a clay body. Clay is a mineral extracted from the ground which can be readily moulded like plasticine. At microscopic level, the particles of clay have a flat plate-like structure giving them this plastic like property. The 2 most commonly used pottery clays are Ball Clay and China Clay (Kaolin). Ball clay tends to be very plastic-mouldable but off white in colour. China clay is less plastic but has a whiter fired colour. Many other clays are available but they tend to be off white to red in colour and therefore less used in high volume white pottery manufacture.

What is a clay body?

The terms clay and body are used by potters almost interchangeably. However in most cases it is not technically correct! In simple terms a body is a formula containing clay and other minerals. Therefore clay is a raw material component of a body. In past times a body was simply a clay dug from the ground which was variable in both its composition and properties. However, modern commercial potters no longer rely on bodies manufactured from clay alone. To achieve specific properties they are scientifically formulated in a very precise way. A wide range of raw clays and minerals are used from all around the world. They vary in colour, strength, particle size as well as mineralogy and purity. No two clays from different parts of the world are precisely the same although for comparison purposes they can act in a similar way when used as part of a body formula. For studio pottery manufacture coarse minerals called grogs are often added to the clay body formulas to give additional texture appeal and improved properties.

How to choose the best clay for you

Firing range of your kiln

The maximum firing temperature of your kiln should be your first consideration when deciding which type of clay body to buy. It is no use choosing a stoneware clay firing 1250 C if your kiln will only fire to 1200 C. Lower temperature kilns are suitable for earthenware and terracotta bodies (less than 1200 C) whereas high temperature kilns are acceptable for most bodies including porcelain and stoneware.

Colour

The fired colour of the body will often dictate the cost. In general whiter clay bodies are more expensive than buff or cream coloured ones. The type of clay body you use is often prescribed by your colour selection. For example porcelain and bone china are always very white after firing.  To give you an idea of the fired colour produced by the different clay body types see the section entitled 'range of bodies'. Please also note that the firing temperature has a significant affect on the fired colour!

The making Process

The making process you intend to use to shape the body is also an important factor when considering the most appropriate clay body. Clay body sub-types allow you to select a clay suitable for all major forming operations including throwing, hand-building, sculpting, casting or machine making.

Size of your work and end use

The size of the pottery piece you plan to make is also important. Larger pieces often require a more heavily grogged (less plastic) clay whereas smaller pieces of work can require more plasticity. In addition, the end use of the ware, whether it is purely ornamental, for outside use, or designed as functional tableware will affect your choice of clay body.

Texture

For the more experienced potter the texture of the clay body after firing is often important.. The feel, look and strength of the ceramic piece is strongly affected by this sub-type of clay. For example the grogged subgroup of bodies generally add texture, strength and stability, whilst an ungrogged body will result in a smoother more polished finish.

Glaze compatibility

Whichever clay body you choose it is imperative that you select a glaze which is compatible with the body. This technical compatibility is critical to producing an intact piece without faults after firing. Be guided by your supplier who can supply compatible glazes for most body types and firing schedules. For peace of mind you should always test a sample of the glaze and clay body in your own kiln prior to any major production. The temperature and firing schedule of your kiln will influence whether your clay body and glaze are compatible after firing.

Range of Clay Bodies

The are numerous clay bodies produced commercially around the world available to the craft potter, studio potter and commercial pottery. Indeed there are so many that it is impossible to detail them all here. Bodies are often developed to make them suitable for the making process. Therefore suppliers often state  subtypes which define which clay bodies are more suitable for hand throwing, casting, hand building etc.

Clay bodies however can be classified into a relatively small number of categories according to their colour, firing range and texture. Below are a few major examples showing the fired colour of individual body types.

Porcelain

Bone China

Earthenware

Stoneware

Terracotta

Bone China

Bone China

This is a smooth textured extremely white firing body that is also translucent. It is unique in that it contains a high proportion of calcined bone ash . Biscuit firing at approx 1220 C gives it a high strength making it suitable for producing delicate highly decorative items as well as tableware. This type of ware after glazing is often decorated with onglaze colours or precious metal decoration to create stunning pieces of pottery. Electric firing kilns usually produce the best bone china quality.

Porcelain

This is a smooth textured translucent extra white firing body similar to bone china. However two types of porcelain are made, a 'hard porcelain' which requires a glaze firing in excess of 1400 C and a 'soft porcelain' which requires a glaze firing to approx 1250 C. Biscuit firing however is often around 1000 C which allows pieces to be glazed more successfully. High temperature gas kilns are often used to fire this type of body. Porcelain, like bone china, can also be decorated with onglaze enamels and precious metal to create delicate highly attractive giftware as well as tableware.

Stoneware

Stoneware

This class of clay body is commonly used by craft and studio potters. It has a relatively high biscuit firing temperature in excess of 1150C.  Many commercial bodies, available in a range of off white to buff colours, are fired in the range 1250-1300C to give maximum strength. By glazing with a reactive type coloured glaze a wide variety of effects and colours can be achieved. Because of this stoneware has found high popularity with craft potters looking to create unique coloured or or textured hand made pottery. This body type can be used to produce both decorative and functional pieces such as tableware.

Terracotta

Terracotta

This class of body is typified by its unique red terracotta colour. This clay body has a high iron content in its mineral components giving the unique red colour. Like stoneware the smooth texture can be modified, by addition of grog (coarse material), to give a much rougher finish. Terracotta bodies have a relatively low firing temperature of 1000-1050C and are therefore porous and have relatively low strength after firing. Commonly unglazed it is often used for sculptures, planters, tiles and garden ware where the technical properties are not so demanding. For more demanding environments such as tableware the body is often glazed to give a stronger more durable product.

Earthenware

This type of body is often used for hand painting by hobbyists.

For craft pottery this body is biscuit fired to approx 1000 C to allow easy brushing of underglaze colours or coloured glaze on to the porous surface. Following  glaze firing to 1050 C to 1150 C the body colour and underglaze colours show through the transparent glaze producing highly decorative ware.  After glaze firing the body remains porous with reduced strength compared to fully vitrified bodies like porcelain or bone china.

Body colour ranges from white to buff and some bodies are also grogged to provide texture.

For commercial tableware optimum body strength is achieved by firing the biscuit in the range 1180-1220 C but this peak is not often needed for lower strength or decorative only ware.

Special bodies

This range of bodies include, highly coloured bodies, low firing bodies, Raku bodies, and special highly textured bodies. In the case of Raku the body is modified to allow rapid heating and cooling without  cracking, usually by the addition of grog. Making raku pottery successfully requires more expertise than other pottery types and often depends on a trial and error approach. To learn more about Raku read my separate article on Raku making.

Summary

Clearly, choosing the right clay body for you poses a number of technical questions. It is more difficult than is immediately obvious. However I recommend you talk to your clay body suppliers in the first instance and not just search the internet. Their vast knowledge of their products will make the whole process of selection of suitable body and glaze just that much easier.

Good Luck
Happy potting!
The Potters Friend

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend.

Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.

Starting out in Pottery? Read this first!

Making pottery is just like baking  a cake but more complex!

I can tell you one thing about pottery that is in-disputable. It is diverse and more complex than you could ever imagine. Think of it as being like baking a cake. There are literally thousands of different recipes and baking instructions, including the one your grannie used to make! Many of the cake recipes make great cakes but they are all slightly different.

 Clay bodies and glazes are just the same but even more complicated! This is what many potters find fascinating. They can develop their own clay body, glaze and process in a way that makes them special and their pottery products unique. Please remember that!

 However for the novice all this complexity creates confusion. Listening to more experienced potters providing a snippet of knowledge is not always good for you. Beginners try to relate it to their needs and often it results in failure.

 So here is what the beginner really needs to know and not forget.

Start with a pottery class

Start with a pottery class. Here you can learn the basics with the support of a tutor. You can meet new friends and even take comfort in that you are not alone in your struggles to learn a new skill! A good tutor will not only guide you but provide material recommendations to allow you to reach the next stage of working alone.

Choose a Quality Clay and Glaze supplier

Clay Body

If you must go it alone there are many suppliers out there who can help you make the right choice of initial materials. They have the experience and knowledge of a wide range of clay bodies and glazes.
Tell them what you want to make and how. For example. "I want to make pottery by using a potters wheel. I want to glaze it with a white glaze by dipping and I have a pottery kiln that has a maximum temperature of 1250C. "

They can then provide a clay and glaze that are compatible which when processed correctly will give you the best possibility of success.

Process the clay and glaze as recommended by the supplier 

Orton Cones

The making and firing process used to make the pottery is as important as the clay and glaze materials. Therefore process the clay and apply the glaze as recommended by the supplier. Fire the clay and glaze in the kiln as recommended by the supplier.  Firing is often controlled by a firing cycle input into an electronic controller and/or Orton cone values. For more information on firing read my detailed article how to properly fire your pottery.

Once you are happy with the finished result repeat it several times. This proves the process you have  used will work consistently as well as giving you confidence in your skills.

Make a note of the clay body, the glaze, the firing schedules and take a photo of the fired appearance. In this way you will always have a record of how to reproduce your great work of art!

Only once skilled add your own artistic flair

Making pottery is a combination of art and science. The art to design something unique and the science to make it into a product. Only when you have the basic pottery skills and can repeatedly create the same basic product should you become focused on artistic flair.

Developing  your own style and delight in making something unique

Lori Duncan Raku

Potters are often most satisfied when they have developed their unique style or products. Using baking as analogy, top bakers often specialise in making bread, cakes or pastries and have their one stand out dish. Likewise potters specialise in stoneware, raku or wood firing or other depending on their influences.

However they develop this over many years of making and studying pottery. 

So do not rush to specialise too early. What all master potters have in common is a strong basic knowledge of clay, glaze and firing.

Keep on learning and enjoy

Pottery making is meant to be enjoyable so make sure this happens. One way to do this is to continue to learn new things. In pottery making this is relatively easy as the subject is so diverse and changing that you never become a master of all.

Once adept at basic skills look at all elements of what you do not just the making technique. Using materials such as colour creatively can open a whole new spectrum of ware. For example if you only made plain glossy white, look at making some coloured glazed pieces.

One way to do this successfully is to enrol on a pottery course specialising on one type of technique. For example studio potters often run courses to help others develop their knowledge of raku or wood firing or sculpting etc. For more information see my list of pottery courses/classes available in the UK

Above all enjoy!

Good Luck
Happy Potting
The Potters Friend

How to Choose a Pottery Wheel

Buying a pottery wheel can be quite an expensive issue. Whilst second hand wheels exist it is difficult to judge their state of repair and future reliability. Therefore make sure you make an informed choice. So what factors should you consider when buying your pottery wheel? Weight of clay When choosing a pottery wheel the weight of clay you intend to throw decides the power of the motor you will need for a power driven wheel. Typical weights are as follows: ¼ HP for small pottery items 20lbs (10kgs approx) max for beginners ½ HP for medium sized items up to 100lbs (25 kgs approx) max suitable for most commercial potters 1 HP for large items 200lbs (50kgs approx) for experienced potters making very large items. Quality and ease of operation Quality of wheel can be an issue as it comes at a price. However you should also consider at least: Noise-older type wheels can be quite noisy whilst some recent models are whisper quiet Smoothness of pedal operation Smoothness of wheel particularly at low speeds- a jerky transition of speed can cause difficulties -important for delicate shaping Reversability-can it be used by left and right handed people? Electric or kick-wheel operation? Foot pedal or hand lever operation? Whilst kick wheel models may be cheaper they can take some getting use to if you are already used to an electric powered Wheel head size and predrilled holes- The wheel head size dictates the max diameter of clay piece which can be thrown. Holes in the wheelhead allow a bat (special disc) to be used. Pins allow release of the bat, holding the thrown piece, from the wheelhead. The thrown piece can then be removed easily for drying while a new piece is thrown. Mobility Some wheels are very light in weight and designed to be portable whilst others are meant to be static. Consider if you want to move the wheel between different locations. Heavy powerful wheels can be more durable and long lasting. Examples of different wheel types are: A Tabletop Wheel The Shimpo Aspire can handle your most creative challenges. Its lightweight, compact design makes it easy to transport, and a 20 lb centering capacity makes it a practical addition to any studio or classroom. The Aspire features a 1/3 HP, 100W DC motor, a 7" alloy wheel head, and a removable one-piece splash pan. The wheels speed ranges from 0–230 rpm, controlled by a hand lever. Also included are two 9¾" bats. It measures 9" H × 14½" W × 20" L and weighs 25 lb . Amazing, affordable, accommodating … Aspire! Shimpo’s Aspire Pottery Wheel includes a two-year limited manufacturer’s warranty.   A Powerful model suitable for seated use Brent wheel Model B is designed to fill the needs of schools and studio potters. Competitively priced, this wheel is quiet and solid under 150 lb (68 kg) loads of clay. A 1/2 HP motor provides the power and weight necessary for school use. A splash pan and 12" Plasti-Bat are included. Shipping weight is 112 lb (51 kg). Truck shipment is required. 10-year limited warranty. CE-certified. Super quiet model for seated use-The Shimpo's Whisper Potter's Wheel is extremely responsive, with high torque at all speeds. It's powerful, and by far the quietest pottery wheel on the market. The ½ HP, brushless DC motor has a direct drive (no belt) system and a broad speed range for optimum control. A fixed foot pedal with hand lever operates the electronically controlled motor. The motor is reversible for lefthanded and righthanded users. The 12" wheelhead and two-piece splash pan are standard. Centers up to 100 lbs. The wheelhead also turns freely, so it can be used as a banding wheel at 0 rpm.

Warranty and Cost Warranty and cost often go hand in hand. A warranty can be anything between 1 and 10 years and cost will be upward of $350 dollars for a new wheel. It is worth asking if it can be repaired locally within the warranty if anything goes wrong..

Digital printing of ceramics

Digital printing of ceramics and decals

Digital printing of decals and ceramic tiles is already well established. Computer generated images can be printed directly onto ceramic tiles via special inkjet systems. Alternatively a photocopier type system can be used to print onto decal paper. Of course both these systems require special machines and ceramic inks or toners to produce optimum results. Nevertheless these systems are causing a revolution in the ceramic tile industry.

The detail of decal printing

Ricoh desktop ceramic printer

In the case of digital decal, you can either create a drawing or photograph and then convert it to a digital image suitable for printing on to decal paper. The image is produced as a decal by a photocopier type machine. After printing the image is sealed to the paper with a covercoat and allowed to dry. The decal can then be applied in the same way as conventional decals by a water slide method. Decorators have the choice of either outsourcing decals (small quantities) or for large quantities buying a machine and toners and printing themselves..

The detail of ink jet printing of tiles

Pigment	System	Temperature	Colour
Yellow	Zr-Si- Pr	1250 °C
Red Magenta	Zr-Cd-Si-Se	1250 °C
Cyan	Zr-V-Si	1250 °C
Black	Fe-Cr-Co-Ni	1250 °C
Primary 4 colours used in ink jet printing

In the case of ink jet printing, the digital image is converted to a ceramic image using a specially adapted ink jet printer and special inks. The ceramic tile passes beneath the printer head and the ink jet colour nozzles deposit the image on the tile.

Gamma Ink Jet Tile Printer

Typically up to 10 ceramic colours are used to produce high quality digital images, 4 similar to the primary colours shown above plus additional spot colours. Browns, coral reds and white are commonly used to fill gaps in the colour space. Special printer heads are used to cope with the highly abrasive ceramic inks. For maximum definition and colour intensity special glazes are sometimes used as the base for printing the coloured image. The printed item can be fired almost immediately after drying.

3d Printing of Ceramics

I am constantly amazed at the ceramic challenges I see each year. Whilst making pottery and ceramics is an ancient tradition, new industrial processes and products (or the re-introduction of many older techniques) continue to stretch the imagination.

3d printed sugar bowl

Both in the UK and USA, 3 dimensional digital printing is one such technique. Developed initially for rapid prototyping of plastic objects it is now being used for small special ceramic parts. The potential to build up a ceramic mug  layer by layer  from a computer image is certainly feasible.
 I have seen the initial prototypes which have been glazed and fired. Many technical challenges remain for this process to be viable commercially but I have no doubt that in the long term this will happen.
For more information about this technique see the link project below:-
 University of Bristol project

3d printing using liquid clay syringe

3d extruder printing

This type of printing is also in the early stages of development for ceramics. Many questions remain particularly control of rheology and removing air pockets and machine development.. However the picture on the right shows how the process works. An air powered syringe forces liquid clay out of the nozzle to build up the object in layers. The head could be computer controlled to map out a digital design.
Potentially the ceramic designer can be creative in designing complex forms as well as simple shapes.
Picture and link to more information kindly provided by Ceramic 3D Extruder (FabLabZuidLimburg) / CC BY-NC 3.0

So what does this mean to the hobby or studio potter?

The opportunity to make low cost efficient designs which can be personalised to meet your customer needs. Digital ceramic decals are already established and widely available. But keep following the progress of 3d printing as the potential is endless. Perhaps now is the time to look at ways these techniques can expand your opportunities?

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.

How to Choose a Pottery Class

The Benefit of Classes

Learning how to make pottery whilst enjoyable in its own right, can be enhanced by professional teaching and sharing of experience with other students.

Classes help people learn quicker and provide the right learning environment to enjoy the experience as well as make friends. This should not be underestimated as many frustrations will become apparent along the way..There are both studio potters who run classes in evenings and weekends as well as local colleges who run part time and full time courses.

Be clear on your needs

One question you need to ask yourself is "do I want to learn the practical skills such as throwing on a wheel or do I want to have a good scientific/artistic understanding?" Knowing this will help define your teaching requirement.

I recently read a debate about when should you call yourself a potter? It was interesting to note that most people shared my view that "you never stop learning in pottery". As pottery making is such a wide subject, you can be an expert in part of it and a mere novice in another area.

Therefore at which point you become expert or call yourself a potter is purely arbitrary.

This point is important as you need to find an expert teacher in the area of pottery in which you want to learn more. 

Choose the right teacher and class

Choosing the right pottery class is not always easy. For example, if you have an interest in learning the basics of  pottery making then joining a class learning about Raku firing is less useful. Similarly if you purely want to learn artistic skills such as hand painting of china as a hobby, there is no need to learn about slip casting of bone china. Clearly it is important to ask the right questions to make sure a class meets your specific needs.

Some helpful links

The following links and brief details of classes may be helpful. Unfortunately I cannot make recommendations as there are so many of which I am not personally familiar. Therefore when making an enquiry please ask for references from previous satisfied clients and ensure that the classes meet your needs etc

Good Luck and enjoy!

Pottery Classes in USA
Directory of Pottery Classes, Courses, Lessons, Events, Workshops, Free Classes, in USA
Pottery classes and Art courses in UK
Directory of Pottery,arts and crafts classes, workshops and painting holidays in Britain and Europe.

More details of individual classes and workshops can be found below:-

Details of UK pottery classes

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.

How To Teach Children about Pottery

Make it Fun
You make their first contact with pottery a fun enjoyable experience. Once they have the interest then you might want to add a little practical knowledge. Of course you want your children to be safe so only use safe materials and provide basic hygiene equipment, and instructions such as -wash your hands, and don't put anything in your mouth.

Where should you start?
Most children are familiar with playdo or plasticine. They have probably moulded these into shapes before. So let them use their imagination to form something that means something to them. Air drying or oven bake modelling clay products (suitable only for age over 3 years) similar to plasticine can be used which allow the pieces to be hardened into permanent shapes.

What next?
Once stimulated you might want to demonstrate how to roll a ball and make a sausage of clay and coil it to make a circular shape. Let them experiment making shapes themselves. Once adept at creating coils you might want to show them how to stack the coils to make a bigger shape. Plastic cutters such as used in cookery can be used to cut out shapes from a flattened out clay just like cutting shapes out of pastry.


What about painting colours?
Many of the items once air hardened or oven baked can be painted with acrylic paints. This allows children to learn a painting skill. The use of different size or shape of tip on brushes can help with children of different skill levels or ages. These skills can then be readily adopted and used with ceramic paints as the child progresses to making real pottery.

What about older children?
Older children need more to keep their interest so create a project and set them a challenge of making an item such as a coin tray. The same materials can be used as for younger children.

Alternatively get some real pottery clay and get them used to its feel and how water affects it and allows it to be smoothed or reprocessed when it dries out..  Of course this might become more messy but that's all part of the fun. Learn that large sections of clay crack on drying and why!

Sculpting tools can be used to  allow even more skills to be developed and create a personalisation of the work.

It is important to note that all items produced from the above information should be considered as purely decorative. Under no circumstance should they be used as food contact items.

Real pottery
In order to make real functional pottery special ceramic materials, glaze and colour need to be used as well as firing in a pottery kiln at very high temperatures (greater than 1000C). This requires some specialist knowledge and expertise. Pottery classes would be recommended at this stage to progress in a safe and friendly environment.

Acrylic paints and a domestic oven WILL NOT produce functional pottery.

More information about getting children to work with clay can be found at 'Teaching Tips for clay' Even more information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.

How to make a Pottery Glaze

The Glaze Recipe There are literally thousands of different types of glaze depending on the clay body used and the firing cycle and condition. A virtually unlimited number of colours, textures and designs are also possible. Applying more than one glaze to the piece just multiplies the possibilities. Each glaze needs its own specific recipe, making process and testing for optimum performance. However for ease of understanding I shall give the recipe and outline process for a transparent glossy glaze firing at 1050C. A typical glaze recipe includes: Borax Frit China Clay Transparent borax frit               90 parts China clay                                10 parts Water                                       50 parts Glaze milling (particle size reduction) In order to melt a glaze rapidly and produce a high gloss finish it is necessary to reduce the particle size to a powder and ensure that it is well dispersed in water. For this to be achieved the particles of the frit and clay are ground to an average size of 5 microns-less than 1/10th the size of a human hair. Overall a distribution in the range 60-70% less than 15 microns is targeted. Glaze Mill Ball mills are traditionally used to grind the materials to make the glaze. The ball mill is a metal cylinder lined with hard alumina or silica blocks. The mill is filled with graded ceramic balls with a max size of 5cm. to approx 50% apparent volume of the internal space. This allows efficient grinding of the glaze. The glaze materials occupy approx 1/3 the volume. The glaze is sampled after set time periods eg 12 to 20 hours until the required particle size distribution is achieved. Glaze Processing Once the average particle size is achieved the glaze slurry is poured out of the mill into a storage vessel via a coarse sieve. This removes large glaze particles and remnants of the grinding balls from the glaze. Typically a 60 mesh sieve is used. The glaze is then processed further by passing the slurry over thro a fine sieve typically less than 100 mesh and a strong magnet. The magnet can be rare earth magnets or electromagnets. This cleansing process removes more of the coarse residue and contaminants that can give faults after firing. Glaze Quality Controls A few simple tests are used to assess the quality and suitability of a glaze for use and include:- 1. Glaze appearance after firing- by glazing a tile of standard body and firing 2. Particle Size measurement and distribution 3. Solids content of slip = slip density 4. Slip fluidity = Slip viscosity Additional tests may be carried out depending on the end use. For example for hotelware the physical and chemical durability may be assessed. Rheology Control The glaze slip rheology is controlled according to the application method required eg dip, spray or brush etc. This is achieved by control of density, viscosity and thixotropy. A torsion viscometer and density can are often used to measure and control these key properties of the slip. Addition of binders and other chemical additives are usually necessary to achieve the optimum properties for specific application methods. Supply and Packaging; Glaze can be supplied in containers suitable for use from 500ml jars for brush on glaze, 5 to 50 litres for dip glaze and 5 to 1000 Litre tanks for spray glaze. For industrial use tankers containing 10000 litres may even be used. However for overseas or long distance supply the glaze is often supplied as a dried powder. In this case the user needs to mix up the glaze and control the slip characteristics themselves. More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.

The Elusive Red Pottery Glaze

Symbolism of Red

Red is one of the most popular colours to be used worldwide. The color red is associated with lust, passion, love, beauty, and danger. In Asia it is a symbol of courage, loyalty, honor, success, fortune, fertility, happiness, passion, and summer.

Consequently many types of asian pottery including the beautiful chinese red glazes of the Sung Dynasty and the exquisite Japanese Imari porcelain feature red as the main colour.

However in more recent times the demand for mass produced red pottery of high intensity and consistent colour has created a real challenge for ceramic engineers involved in pottery manufacture.

Japanese Red
Imari porcelain is the name for Japanese porcelain wares made in the town of Arita, in the former Hizen Province, northwestern Kyūshū. They were exported to Europe extensively from the port of Imari, Saga between latter half of 17th century and former half of 18th century.

Photo of Imari by George Le Gars

Though there are many types of Imaris, Western Europes conception of Imari is associated with the type of Imari produced and exported in large quantity in mid-17th century. This type is called Kinrande and is coloured porcelain with underglaze cobalt blue and onglaze red and gold.

The blue is rich in colour and hue and is based on a cobalt containing pigment. The red colour, however, whilst remarkably bright and interesting is not such a clean hue and is produced using iron oxide or iron based ceramic pigments.

Iron ochres and natural red clays are some of the earliest pigments used by man and continue to be used today particularly in hand crafted pottery of rustic nature.

Rouge Flambe
Similarly many of the early ceramic red colours and glazes used on European pottery were not always pure in colour and were based on copper or gold in colloidal form. These colours were used to copy original Chinese patterns and glazes perfected in the 18th century.

Rouge Flambe by Royal Doulton Co

Interest in reproducing flambe glazes began in about 1855 in France but soon spread across Europe, particularly to England and Germany.

In Britain, the Staffordshire potter Bernard Moore used experimental and highly accomplished red flambe glazes on Chinese-inspired shapes to wonderful effect. Requiring a special glaze formula, firing cycle and condition they were expensive to manufacture and difficult to reproduce.

Shown here is a vase made by Royal Doulton decorated with the spectacular Rouge Flambe glaze.

The Challenge of Pillar Box Red

Red Pillar Box by Ian Britton 
FreeFoto.com

The development of a reproducible pillar box red glaze and decoration has been an elusive challenge for potters and ceramic engineers through the ages.

In particular the large scale development and manufacture of pillar box red colour and glaze for pottery is believed to have taken over eight thousand years to achieve. It was not until the twentieth century that true pillar box red glazes and onglaze colours became widely available for decoration of pottery.

Cadmium Sulpho-Selenide Red Glazes

Red glazes and colours based on cadmium have been available for about 50 years. The early glazes and colours of this type depended heavily on cadmium being added to the glaze as a pigment mixed crystal Cadmium sulphoselenide (CdSSe). However glazes of this type lacked temperature stability above approx 800C.

To overcome this the cadmium was added to the frit batch and subsequently melted into a glassy state. In many cases the frits also contained lead, sulphur and selenium. This type of glaze required firing in a specific way to achieve optimum results. The firing time and the kiln atmosphere were both critical. The best results were obtained using a short firing cycle to a peak temperature of approximately 1000C. Good air circulation in the kiln, and a good separation of pieces were also recommended. Ideally Cd/Se fritted glazes should be fired separately from other types of ware, because fumes from other coloured glazes can affect the colour achieved.

First generation Zircon/ Cadmium Red Glazes

Actual Red

Target Red

In the 1970s ceramic engineers in Europe developed a new generation of red colours and glazes. These were totally different in nature as they were based on a zircon encapsulated cadmium pigment. These were patented in 1973 by Broll et al of Degussa.

Briefly encapsulation  means that at microscopic level the cadmium is surrounded by the zircon crystal. This gives two major advantages. The pigment is more temperature stable up to 1200 celsius and more chemically stable thus giving lower cadmium release after firing and exposure to acids. These types of red glaze could be used on a variety of firing schedules and were infinitely more flexible in use.

However these pigments had a serious drawback which limited their widespread use. They lacked intensity and consequently needed high pigment loading to give any degree of colour saturation.


Second and third generation Zircon/ Cadmium Red Glazes

Red Vase by Newland Pottery BV

In the last 20 years or more the encapsulate type of pigment has been developed further to the stage where intense pillar box red coloured glazes (see target above) are now possible. These pigments have allowed more stable sanitaryware glaze colours to be produced where high temperatures in excess of 1250C are used. In addition they are suitable for use in a range of glaze and onglaze colours as they are mixable with other non cadmium based colours.

China is the major manufacturer of these types of pigment as they have proven to be a lower cost supplier of intense encapsulate pigments.

The challenge of the stable pillar box red glaze now appears to have been met by ceramic engineers. The  stable cadmium encapsulate pigment is being used by most pottery manufacturers and appears to meet current legislation in many parts of the world. However cadmium is still an emotive word for many being considered a toxic element in much the same way lead. So who knows? Will the journey to find a new pillar box red start all over again? What do you think?

This article was inspired by the recent publication of  a book entitled THE DEFIANT RED by my friend the highly respected ceramic expert Leen W Baaij.

More information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free newsletter.