How to Choose a Pottery Wheel

Buying a pottery wheel can be quite an expensive issue. Whilst second hand wheels exist it is difficult to judge their state of repair and future reliability. Therefore make sure you make an informed choice. So what factors should you consider when buying your pottery wheel? Weight of clay When choosing a pottery wheel the weight of clay you intend to throw decides the power of the motor you will need for a power driven wheel. Typical weights are as follows: ¼ HP for small pottery items 20lbs (10kgs approx) max for beginners ½ HP for medium sized items up to 100lbs (25 kgs approx) max suitable for most commercial potters 1 HP for large items 200lbs (50kgs approx) for experienced potters making very large items. Quality and ease of operation Quality of wheel can be an issue as it comes at a price. However you should also consider at least: Noise-older type wheels can be quite noisy whilst some recent models are whisper quiet Smoothness of pedal operation Smoothness of wheel particularly at low speeds- a jerky transition of speed can cause difficulties -important for delicate shaping Reversability-can it be used by left and right handed people? Electric or kick-wheel operation? Foot pedal or hand lever operation? Whilst kick wheel models may be cheaper they can take some getting use to if you are already used to an electric powered Wheel head size and predrilled holes- The wheel head size dictates the max diameter of clay piece which can be thrown. Holes in the wheelhead allow a bat (special disc) to be used. Pins allow release of the bat, holding the thrown piece, from the wheelhead. The thrown piece can then be removed easily for drying while a new piece is thrown. Mobility Some wheels are very light in weight and designed to be portable whilst others are meant to be static. Consider if you want to move the wheel between different locations. Heavy powerful wheels can be more durable and long lasting. Examples of different wheel types are: A Tabletop Wheel The Shimpo Aspire can handle your most creative challenges. Its lightweight, compact design makes it easy to transport, and a 20 lb centering capacity makes it a practical addition to any studio or classroom. The Aspire features a 1/3 HP, 100W DC motor, a 7" alloy wheel head, and a removable one-piece splash pan. The wheels speed ranges from 0–230 rpm, controlled by a hand lever. Also included are two 9¾" bats. It measures 9" H × 14½" W × 20" L and weighs 25 lb . Amazing, affordable, accommodating … Aspire! Shimpo’s Aspire Pottery Wheel includes a two-year limited manufacturer’s warranty.   A Powerful model suitable for seated use Brent wheel Model B is designed to fill the needs of schools and studio potters. Competitively priced, this wheel is quiet and solid under 150 lb (68 kg) loads of clay. A 1/2 HP motor provides the power and weight necessary for school use. A splash pan and 12" Plasti-Bat are included. Shipping weight is 112 lb (51 kg). Truck shipment is required. 10-year limited warranty. CE-certified. Super quiet model for seated use-The Shimpo's Whisper Potter's Wheel is extremely responsive, with high torque at all speeds. It's powerful, and by far the quietest pottery wheel on the market. The ½ HP, brushless DC motor has a direct drive (no belt) system and a broad speed range for optimum control. A fixed foot pedal with hand lever operates the electronically controlled motor. The motor is reversible for lefthanded and righthanded users. The 12" wheelhead and two-piece splash pan are standard. Centers up to 100 lbs. The wheelhead also turns freely, so it can be used as a banding wheel at 0 rpm.

Warranty and Cost Warranty and cost often go hand in hand. A warranty can be anything between 1 and 10 years and cost will be upward of $350 dollars for a new wheel. It is worth asking if it can be repaired locally within the warranty if anything goes wrong..

Burnishing unfired clay pottery

Burnished ware by David Greenbaum

I recently came across the term 'beeswax pottery' and wondered what it meant. I discovered that it was a form of burnishing clay pottery to give it a smooth attractive mainly waterproof finish. Previously, to me, burnishing was just a term for the polishing of gold decoration used for the decoration of pottery.

It reminded me that you never stop learning with pottery. It is such a wide subject which continues to grow as new techniques are invented (or old ones re-invented!).

 History of clay burnishing 
Many ancient potters used burnishing to make their pottery harder and more waterproof before they discovered the use of glazes. Nowadays, modern potters choose to finish their work by burnishing because of the subtle, but beautiful finish achieved using this method. A burnished pot often has a soft, tactile quality all its own. However modern potters also need to know that this type of pottery should be used for decorative purposes only and not for ware intended for contact with food or drink.

Health and safety considerations are now a more important part of our modern life!

 So What is Burnishing and how is it done?

Burnishing is basically rubbing the surface of the clay piece until it becomes glossy. To achieve a satisfactory finish it often takes several hours for even a small pot. Skill and practice are required for this technique as it is highly influenced by the state of drying. The best stage to burnish is usually at the later stage of leatherhard. However many potters burnish the piece more than once to achieve the ultimate finish.

Working in very small areas, applying a little lubricant at a time to the piece, rubbing in different directions will gradually create a sheen. Care is needed as sufficient force is needed to compress the surface but not create a hole or flake. After firing the sheen is mostly retained and can be improved by polishing with beeswax or other types of wax.

 Some key factors to consider when using this technique include:-

  Choose your clay wisely
Burnishing requires either a very fine clay body, or fine clay engobe. Clay bodies which contains grog or sand are therefore not recommended for this technique. Low firing clay bodies such as earthenware are also recommended as higher firing bodies can give rough texture after firing.

Choose your shapes wisely
Pots with smooth flowing surfaces are easier to burnish and look so much better when fired. Complex shapes with sharp corners or surface features will be almost impossible to burnish properly.
  
Choose your tools wisely

The burnishing tools you use need to be smooth, hard and easy to hold. As burnishing is a very time consuming process comfort is an important factor and this is a personal thing. However most potters use the backs of spoons or polished stones for this technique. Some potters carry out a secondary burnish using smooth plastic or other materials.

Choose your burnishing oil wisely.
To aid the burnishing process the use of a burnishing lubricant is recommended. The lubricant allows the clay to densify and give an even smoother finish after firing. . Lubricants that are often used include vegetable oils, lard, and water. Although the choice of lubricant is subjective, water is the least recommended as there is a tendency for it to soak into the body or flake the surface as it is pressed.

Firing 
Firing of the ware after burnishing is important and can alter the texture of the surface significantly. Low firing clay bodies appear to work best.

 Post firing polishing 
 Firing gives the burnished ware a lovely, tactile soft feel. In ancient times, animal fat, oil, and wax were often used to make it more waterproof and to restore the pre-firing high gloss. Today, most potters use a  form of wax. Paraffin wax, candle wax, and beeswax, have all been used successfully. By applying the wax to a small area of heated ware and polishing a high sheen can be achieved.  The result is an outstanding piece of decorative ware that often looks as though it has been glazed but feels so different!

If you found this article of interest make sure you read about Terra Sigallata a method for making shiny ware without the polishing stages!

Of course more information and other technical articles on pottery and ceramics can be found at my website  The Potters Friend. Go now to sign up for my free  newsletter.